There are lots of good reasons to visit the lovely fishing village of Cedeira in Galicia’s Rías Altas, but the humungous portions (the photo shows a tapa!) served up in the Kilowatio are what draw me back time after time. Marraxo (Isaurus Oxyrinchus) or Short Finned Mako Shark is cooked simply though triumphantly on a ‘plancha’ or griddle with a little olive oil, parsley, sea salt. The Kilowatio’s reputation is known far and wide with people driving up from Madrid on a weekend for their fix of Marraxo. The flavour and texture is quite delicate and not in the least bit fishy, so perfect for the adventurous fishphobe. The Kilowatio, unsurprisingly, is always packed in summer and getting elbow room at the bar can be challenging, but the service is fast and friendly. Counting the days to my next incursion. Deputisima madre!